culinary landmark
There is a culinary landmark in every city -- a stand-alone restaurant that every native swears by, and every tourist boasts that he has 'been there and done that'. This is that kind of a place. Koshy's on St. Mark's Road is a destination for die-hard foodies and not because they have done something new (except for the snooty Jewel Box section). It's because they have stayed with the old -- tradition is good and Koshy's is laughing all the way to the bank, judging by the crowds that throng the restaurant. The place has two sections, the more popular one and the older one, is not air-conditioned and is also the smoking area. So if you are put off by people smoking around you, maybe you should move over to the air-conditioned section, the Jewel Box. But the former is the fun place with friendly waiters, and interesting people.
I was told the restaurant has been around from the British days, and the 3rd generation runs it today. I am amazed they have been able to preserve the ethos. The old favorites, appam and stew is a signature dish. Then there are the unusally usuals -- fish curry (with rice), keema egg curry and rice, panneer kulcha, murg massalam, and of course the biryanis -- the Koshy's have their own flavours in the biriyani, a cut above the usual you get elsewhere prefixed by 'Hyderabadi'. Steaks, I hear are quite popular here, though I haven't had the chance to try them yet. By the way, the restaurant doesn't take advance reservations, so get there early if you don't want to wait.
Positives
1. Old world charm and traditional taste
2. Fish curry and rice
Negatives
1. The smoking section
Worth the price?
Yes